Frequently Asked Questions

A 20x20 floor is 400 square feet. On HomeGuide's numbers, installed epoxy runs $4 to $10 per square foot, with two-car garages ranging $1,600 to $5,800, which puts a 400 square foot garage toward the bottom of that span. Old coatings, cracks and flake or metallic finishes push it up. Once we have looked at your slab, the price goes on paper.

At that size the job is priced by the square foot. HomeGuide's installed range is $4 to $10 per square foot on epoxy jobs and $5 to $12 for polyaspartic, and for heavy-duty 100% solids commercial and industrial systems, HomeAdvisor shows $12 or more. The system, the prep and the amount of slab repair decide where in those ranges your project falls.

Standard epoxy yellows in sunlight, can get slick when wet without texture, and takes longer to cure than polyaspartic. HomeGuide notes a full epoxy cure can stretch to about a week. It is also sensitive to moisture in the slab and the air. We handle those with UV-stable topcoats, anti-slip texture, moisture testing and careful timing.

It costs more than paint and less than many tile or stone floors. HomeGuide lists store DIY kits at $200 to $700, against $4 to $10 per square foot for a professional epoxy install. The gap mostly pays for grinding, repairs and thicker, harder coats, which is why pro floors tend to outlast kit floors.

Yes, with planning. Ahead of every coat we measure how warm the concrete is and compare it with the dew point, keep the garage closed while the coating sets when we can, and often use polyaspartic topcoats that cure quickly. If conditions are wrong, we wait instead of risking a cloudy or weak bond.

A properly bonded, ground and repaired floor handles both. We ask about tongue jacks, trailer stands and cart chargers during the estimate, and we may suggest a thicker base or extra flake in the parking path. Rubber pads under jack stands help protect any coating.

Many associations in Northeast Florida have rules about exterior finishes, work hours and contractor access, and condo buildings often control shared garages and balconies. Check your association's rules before scheduling. For the approval packet, we can put the system and color choices in writing for you.

It depends on the system. HomeGuide notes polyaspartic handles vehicle traffic in roughly 24 to 48 hours, while a full epoxy cure can run as long as a week and it advises keeping cars off for 2 to 7 days. We give you a time for your floor based on the product and the conditions on install day.

A smooth, glossy finish can be. Flake gives the surface some texture, and mixing a grit additive into the topcoat adds more, which helps by the door where storms blow rain inside.

Not directly. Paint and old kit coatings are the most common reason new coatings peel, so we grind them off first. That removal step is listed on the quote.

Yes, on a properly prepared slab. We put a pad under the tongue jack and trailer stands, and on heavy setups we may build a thicker base where the trailer sits.

It will not keep water out. It does give you a sealed surface where mud and silt hose off, rather than bare concrete that soaks up stains. After any flood, we can check the coating and slab for damage.

Yes. Those three names refer to one system: colored vinyl chips broadcast into a base coat, then locked in with a clear top.

No. Under a clear topcoat the surface is sealed, so a dust mop, a rinse and a mild cleaner handle most messes. A full broadcast with one topcoat has more texture and may need a stiffer brush.

The chips themselves are colorfast, but the clear coat over them is what takes the light. That is why we use a polyaspartic top on any part of the floor that sees daylight.

Yes, with a UV-stable system and enough texture for wet feet. Our pool deck and outdoor page covers that in more detail.

It is better for sunlight and speed, according to HomeGuide's UV ratings and cure times. Epoxy goes on thicker with each coat and is slightly cheaper per square foot. A lot of floors combine them, with epoxy underneath for thickness and polyaspartic on top for UV.

HomeGuide gives polyaspartic a lifespan of 10 to 20 years or more. Prep, slab moisture and the amount of wear the floor takes make the biggest difference.

It is not a good DIY product. Bob Vila notes it is not for DIY because it sets so quickly, and on a hot Jacksonville day the working time gets even shorter.

Usually only briefly. Bob Vila notes a business may need to shut for just a day or two. We can also coat one zone at a time so the rest stays open.

Yes, with a UV-stable polyaspartic topcoat and some texture. A garage metallic floor shows tire marks and grit more than flake, so it suits a showpiece garage more than a working one.

It will be in the same family, not a copy. Each pour moves differently, so we use sample boards to set colors and talk through the style of movement you like.

A high-gloss surface gets slippery when it is damp. Mixing fine grit into the last coat helps, and the look barely changes.

Usually the tile and thinset come up first so we can coat bare concrete. Coating over tile risks grout lines showing through and a weak bond.

It depends on size, repairs and the system. A full epoxy cure can run as long as a week, while polyaspartic systems can often handle traffic within a day or two. We phase large floors so parts of the space stay in use.

Often, yes. We degrease, grind and sometimes use an oil-tolerant primer. Concrete that is badly soaked may have to be removed and replaced with patch material first.

Yes. Aisle lines, walkways, hazard stripes and zone markings can go down as part of the coating itself, so they wear with the floor rather than peeling like tape.

Entry rules on base property are set by the installation, so the project owner would need to arrange access. Off-base commercial floors we schedule directly.

Most decks take a few days, depending on size, repairs and the system. Rain changes the schedule, so we plan around the forecast and tell you when the deck can be used.

Lighter colors and textured cool-deck style finishes are the usual choice for heat. HomeGuide describes Kool Deck as helping to lower surface temperature. Dark, smooth finishes get the hottest.

Usually, if the cracks are stable. We fill them and keep expansion joints open. If the slab has heaved or keeps shifting, you will hear that from us before any coating gets priced.

Yes. Many people coat the lanai with the same color family. A flake and polyaspartic system often suits the covered area, with a cooler texture on the open deck.